Bockmattli | Crossing from the Great Tower

The Bockmattli are grandiose and wild towers! On beautiful evenings, the large Bockmattli tower shines in the evening sun and can be easily recognised from Zurich and the surrounding area. The limestone wall really shines in the evening sun. We climb the large Bockmattli tower together on its "easiest" route, the Deubergrat. This means scrambling in the 3rd and lower 4th degree of difficulty through impressive terrain. The approach leads through the small Chälen into the west basin and after a short descent we reach the Rippe. On this we climb in four pitches to the saddle between the tower and the main summit. From here, the terrain is easier but still exposed on the Grosser Turm. It is magnificent to stand here in this wild mountain range with a view of Lake Zurich and the surrounding area! The descent leads in typical mountaineering terrain to the main summit of Bockmattli and from there along the hiking trail back to Gross Chälen and on into the valley. We pass the climbing hut, where we can toast proudly to our shared experience and enjoy the Bockmattli in its profile once again.

Climbing history was written early on at Bockmattli. The first ascent of the 400 metre high north face in 1947 by young local climbers caused a sensation far and wide. The Bockmattli suddenly became known as a climbing paradise. Elite climbers from all over Switzerland and neighbouring countries met here regularly. Later, in the 1980s, the famous "Supertramp" route was created, which characterised the free climbing style in the Alps.