Alpine Tour | Mittellegi Ridge on the Eiger

THE ridge: imposing and impressive - the border between the green, hilly foothills of the Alps and the glaciated, white high mountains.

Technics

Endurance

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Firngrat from the Mittellegi Ridge on the Eiger

The Mittellegi Ridge is one of the most impressive ridges. The north face of the Eiger always drops steeply away to the right. You look directly towards Grindelwald and further into the green pre-Alpine landscape with its lakes and hills. On the other side is the glaciated high mountain world of rock, snow and ice. It doesn't get more contrasting and impressive than this. The ridge itself is super to climb and a superlative experience.
The approach to the hut is short, about 2 hours from the Stollenloch of the Jungfraujochbahn and leads over a mighty glacier and some scrambling and climbing sections up to the Mittellegi hut. From the hut, you can enjoy a unique view of the day ahead and a sunset like rarely before. We set off early in the morning. The first climbing sections are tackled straight away. The difficult sections on the Mittellegi are secured with fixed ropes and the tour can be mastered in the 3rd degree of difficulty. The descent is long again. Either through the Eigerjöcher back to the Jungfraujoch or via the west flank back to Kleine Scheidegg, past the "Pilz", a rock tower in the north face of the Eiger. The mountain guide will decide which option is better at short notice. Come along and experience a magnificent ridge tour on the famous - infamous - Eiger together!

Tour schedule
Day 1 - Preparation tour and ascent to the hut:
- Meeting point at Grindelwald railway station - terminal
- Ride to the Eiger Glacier Station
- Tour to the Rotstock below the Eiger west flank (approx. 3h)
- Trip to the gallery hole at the Eiger Glacier Station
- Ascent to the Mittellegi Hut:
  
  The gallery hole leads us directly onto the Chalifirn glacier. We are immediately immersed in the high mountain world. We cross the glacier and immediately start a steep climbing passage in the upper 3rd degree of difficulty over approx. 3 pitches. Afterwards, the ribbon path leads us to the Mittellegi hut directly on the Mittellegi ridge.
Day 2 - Tour of the Eiger via the Mittellegi Ridge and descent via the Eigerjöcher or the West Flank
- Early in the morning we start the day scrambling. A few easier passages and a short abseil lead us to the steeper part of the Mittellegi Ridge. This is made easier to climb with thick hemp ropes. Exhausting, but not too difficult, we reach a section that is very beautiful and varied to climb. The last section to the summit leads over the famous firn field of the Eiger. This is once again very exposed and really impressive with a great view!
- Descent: The descent is again the same length as the ascent. There are two variants to choose from:
  
  Classic descent over the Eigerjöcher: Following the ridge, we often descend in easy terrain, interrupted by several abseils. This is how we reach the Nördliches Eigerjoch, where we take another leisurely rest in order to climb the connecting ridge between the two Eigerjöcher with more strength. We climb and scramble over several towers until we put on the crampons at the southern Eigerjoch and walk over the glacier to the Jungfraujoch.
  
  Descent via the western flank of the Eiger: From the summit we descend the flank. The path winds its way down over narrow paths and short abseiling sections. The path gradually becomes easier and leads past the "mushroom". This is a rocky outcrop in the north face of the Eiger that serves as a jump-off point for base jumpers. A very special place! The path continues downhill and with a final long abseil we reach the easy hiking trail back to the Eiger Glacier station.
Venue & meeting point
- Area: Bernese Oberland, Grindelwald
- Meeting point: 12.15 in Grindelwald Terminal
- End: approx. 15.00 in Grindelwald
- Overnight stay: Mittellegi Hut
Requirements
- You have experience on high tours.
- You have experience with ice axe and crampons.
- Experience in climbing and scrambling in the 3rd degree of difficulty and can move efficiently in rocky terrain.
- Good physical condition for high altitude tours with around 1200hm ascent and descent at a normal pace (~350hm/h).
Group size
- Takes place with one guest per mountain guide.
Price and services
- Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his travel expenses.
- Excluding travel expenses, possible train tickets, personal consumption.
- Excluding accommodation costs, approx. 80.- CHF per night with half board.
Material and equipment
- We have for you a detailed packing list with packing tips compiled.
- For this tour you need the following material from this PDF. We carry our equipment with us all the time. Pack only what is necessary.