900m
Piz Bernina and Palü | Biancograt
The most famous crossing in the Engadin, unique and extremely rewarding, leads over the only 4,000 metre peak in Graubünden.
Technics
Endurance
The crossing from Piz Bernina via the Biancograt is considered one of the most beautiful high tours in the Alps. The snow ridge on Piz Bernina is impressive and the climbing on the connecting ridge is varied. The best way to climb Piz Bernina is to cross it via the Biancograt and spend the night in the splendidly situated Marco e Rosa hut. On the last day, you can also cross the Piz Palü with its impressive glacier on the descent. This is a first-class tour that is only guided 1:1 and has good conditions, especially at the beginning of summer.
Procedure and meeting place
We meet at 14.00 in Pontresina and climb together from here to the Tschierva hut. On the ascent we can already marvel at tomorrow's destination. Depending on your wishes, we can simplify the ascent with hire bikes or a carriage ride.
Today we cross the Piz Bernina via the Biancograt. The approach leads over the moraine to the glacier below Fuorcla Prievlusa. Depending on the season, we climb this on a steep snowfield or via the via ferrata. From the Fuorcla Prievlusa, an easy climb leads over the first pre-summit. Then over the "shark fin" and onto the Biancograt. This is a 35 - 40° steep snow ridge, which is easy to walk on as long as there is still snow. This is how we reach the Piz Alv / Pizzo Bianco. Now we cross the rocky ridge over several small towers to Piz Bernina. The descent leads with several short abseils to the nearby Rifugio Marco e Rosa.
We start at dawn and cross the Bellavista terrace to reach the rocky ridge of Piz Palü. We cross this over all 3 Palü summits, Piz Spinas, Palü east and west summit. The descent is really impressive between the crevasses of the Pers Glacier. We climb to the Diavolezza, from where we descend comfortably into the valley by cable car.
Requirements
- You have already gained experience on alpine tours and can climb up to 3 degrees in mountain boots.
- Walking on crampons is no problem for you and you have already gained some experience with them.
- You feel comfortable in exposed terrain and have already climbed a few ridges.
Price and performance
- CHF 2390.-
- Rope team of 1 mountain guide and 1 guest, 1:1.
- Including planning and implementation with mountain guide
- Including overnight stays in huts with half board.
- Excluding travel expenses, possible train tickets, personal consumption.
Material and equipment
- We have for you a detailed packing list with packing tips compiled.
- For this tour you need the following material from this PDF. We carry our equipment with us all the time. Pack only what is necessary.
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us, preferably directly at Jonas or via the Contact form.
Impressions: Biancograt
How to get to Piz Bernina with us:
- 3 - 6 July 2025, Thursday - Sunday, 3 days from this time slotOnly one free place left
Mountain guideCHF 2390.-
As Private Tour on your desired date with your group:
As Voucher give your favourite as a gift:
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